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 Enough chicken of the woods to feed an army. Found near my house today, but too far gone to pick for good eating.
Two weeks ago heavy rains penetrated even the dense canopies of evergreen trees, soaking the ground. Then came a heat wave. A week later our woodsy world erupted in mushrooms. Unfortunately, I was away during that time so I missed the main event but have been wowed by what I’ve been finding at the tail end of that flush.Â
After spending most of the summer searching regularly, but finding only dissappointing numbers of chanterelles, a few lobsters, and some porcini and chicken of the woods that had gone by, I was feeling rather discouraged about mushroom hunting.  It didn’t help that the past few wet summers yielded little in the way of good edibles. (Mushrooms like moist but not wet conditions.)Â
On my walks with the dog since returning, a mere glance into areas of mixed hemlock-deciduous forest on well-drained benches along the top of a ravine that runs next to our road, brought success. There, in places I’ve never seen them before, were clusters of beautiful porchinis – the beloved culinary mushroom, Boletus edulis. When young, the caps look like appetizing buns, freshly browned from the oven, and picked before the caps flatten, while the flesh is still firm and heavy, they are among the best mushrooms, wild or cultivated. I love the scent — a mild, savory smell that hints at the intense umami that makes porcini such a prized ingredient.Â
For our Friday night bruschetta, we sauteed some sliced porcinis, added diced onions and garlic after the moisture was cooked out of the mushrooms and then deglazed with red wine and tossed in a little parsley at the end. That, dolloped generously on slices of good, crusty bread and broiled with a little cheese on top was awesome! The rest of the porcinis were thinly sliced and are currently air drying. Drying concentrates the flavor of porcinis so that when reconstituted in a little water, a little can be added to risottos, sauces and stews for great effect.
 Porcini in various poses on black and white paper for taking spore prints.
Before indulging further in myco-enthusiasms, I must offer appropriate caution. Eating wild mushrooms can be fatal!  No one should attempt to eat wild mushrooms without first learning the basics of mushroom identification.  There are old mushroom hunters and bold mushroom hunters but no old, bold mushroom hunters. Â
A little fear is a healthy component of this sport. All it took for me was to read a terrifying description of death from liver failure caused by eating one of the common white Amanita species known as the Destroying Angel, to instill in me the powerful desire to take spore prints and to consult multiple sources before sampling any new mushroom for the first time.  Besides the Aminitas avoid the Galerinas.  One of a host of “LBMs” (little brown mushrooms), galerinas are difficult even for experts to identify, so I avoid the whole universe of LBMs all together.
Most mushrooms are neither lethally poisonous nor particularly good to eat. The edibility of mushrooms range on a spectrum from very few mushrooms that are deadly, to a lot that could give you a tummy ache and possibly hallucinations, to another large number on the edible side that won’t hurt you but aren’t particularly tasty either, and finally to the 20 or so species that the field guides refer to as “choice.”  Â
With all the reference books, websites, smart phone apps, and mycology club outings available these days, learning to identify just the choice mushrooms in your habitat should be a do-able undertaking for anyone with the interest and desire to learn.  Besides good eating, you’ll be rewarded with a fun way to liven-up a walk in the woods and a growing appreciation for the amazing world of fungi that silently co-exists with ours.
 Transplants in peat pots ready for fall.
August — the best of the summer months, when the weather more often than not cooperates for outdoor fun, the biting bugs diminish and the great season of bountiful harvests begins. But I can already feel the hours of daylight diminishing rapidly. Crickets now dominate the evening chorus and the Canada geese have begun their training flights. Even while harvesting the classic summer produce — tomatoes, peppers, beans, basil, cucumbers, zucchini, eggplant, potatoes, onions, garlic and more — one must, alas, turn attention to fall and the plants that can survive and thrive in cold.
Last week after removing the spent pea vines and freeing up the beds that had been used for garlic and onions, I amended the soil with compost, lightly cultivated the surface and planted seedlings started a few weeks ago in peat pots, including lettuce, bok choy, fennel bulbs and curly endive. Some arugua that went to seed was pulled up and laid over a bare patch of soil to see if it would seed itself. The previous week, in another bed, I direct-seeded some beets and rutabega that are already up.
All such diversions from the main business of taking it easy in August, can only be accomplished with hopeful anticipation that a variety of colors, textures and flavors will grace our table well into the fall.
 Spring harvested scallions, from bulblets formed by perennial multiplying onions.
Scallions or green onions are among the most versatile vegetables one can grow in the garden. And one of the easiest too. We like them grilled whole, cut up and stir fried or minced for garnish, to name just a few uses.
 A wide row of onion sets, trenched for scallions.
So I was thrilled to find that The Depot in Essex Junction still had a bin full of onion sets. And on sale too. Usually garden centers sell out or possibly throw out the leftover onion sets after the spring planting season ends, so I’m always thrilled to find them for sale anywhere at this time of year, since planting them now will yeild months of good eating in the fall.
I planted them this week, in trenches about 1-2 inches deep and close together, single file or in wide rows. Covered them over, watered, and that’s it. Anyone can do it! Don’t even need particularly good soils since much of the energy for the plant is already stored in the bulb.
If sets aren’t available, you can can start scallion seeds and I did a month ago and I’ve also used the bulblets that form at the top of perennial multiplying onions that make excellent sets for free. But their productions is fickle and this summer’s bublets are too tiny to produce strong scallions.Â
 Soaking lettuce stems in water to reduce bitterness.
On the lettuce front, we’re coming to the end of the spring sown plants and they are starting to bolt, with bitterness increasing daily. I’ve found I can salvage them for salads by soaking the stems in water immediately after cutting the heads and periodically re-cutting the stems. This seems to encourage the bitter, milky juice in the stem to drain out. The whole procedure of draining the stems takes about 4-5 cuts and 15 minutes or so, maybe a little longer if the lettuce is really bitter. I do this while washing them in the sink or in a big bowl. The cut portions of the stems can be a nice crunchy treat, peeled if needed, and by tasting the stems you can gauge how bitter the leaves will be.
If the lettuce has already created flowers and the leaves have lost their glossiness, then it’s usually too far gone and best added to the compost  bin, and the bed amended with finished compost and replanted for fall greens.
 St. Johnswort blossoms along the roadside.
St. Johns wort (Hypericum perforatum), was all the rage in the 90’s as a herbal remedy for depression. As is often the case with health fads, people soon lost interest, the effects of this common summer-blooming weed being too subtle for those accustomed to aggressive pharmaceutical solutions.
Since then, through my forays into the world of herbal skin care, I’ve gained a high regard for this lowly plant and look forward to its blooming each summer. Infused in extra virgin olive oil, the bright, yellow flowers mysteriously transform the golden liquid into a deep auburn-red.
I especially love the way St. Johns wort oil imparts warmth in winter. It envelopes cold, moisture-starved skin like an August heat wave. It feels so good that once experienced, capturing those little yellow flowers and the sunshine they contain becomes a summer foraging priority.
To make hypericum oil, fill a jar loosely with flowers, avoiding the green parts and including any plump buds. Then submerge in olive, sweet almond or grape seed oil. Shake the jar well and leave in a sunny windowsill, giving a shake once or twice a day. After about 6 weeks, strain through cheesecloth, and bottle in a sterilized jar and store in a cool dark place.
The oil can be used as-is for massage oil, serum or worked into home made lotions, scrubs and salves. Money just can’t buy such a high quality skin care product and one that preserves the essence of summer happiness. But you have to pick and make it yourself to get the maximum therapeutic effect.
 Boiling juice first and adding fruit at the end to preserve color, taste and texture of raspberries.
Hot, sticky, sweet Jam in July.Â
Raspberries ripen fast in a heat wave, at a rate of 2 quarts a day from my 40′ row. With no chest freezer at our house, making jam has proven to be the best “value added” approach to preserving the precious fruit (last seen at $5.50/pint at a local store). We stuff as many berries as we can in Ziploc bags in the refrigeratorfreezer (after freezing them on a cookie sheet in one layer to keep them whole), and invite friends and neighborhs over to pick, but still end up making jam at least two times a week. It’s not my favorite task on a hot day but once in the swing of it, I can process a batch in 30 minutes. A good vent over the stove keeps the kitchen comfortable and I still love the scent of raspberry essence and the jewel red, viscous juice bubbling away.
For 8 cups of raspberries I use 4 cups of sugar and one lemon cut in half, seeds removed. Mixed together in a bowl and covered with a clear plastic or other cover, I set it in the sun to macerate for an hour or more, stirring occasionally. The goal is to separate the juice and pectin from the fruit and melt the sugar. This can be done by storing it for several hours in the fridge too, but I like working with a sun-warmed product better than starting the jam chilled. Saves energy too.Â
When the sugar is mostly dissolved, pour just the juice and lemon halves into a wide pan and boil at a fairly high heat, leaving the fruit to drain in a colander set over a bowl. Periodically add the juice collected in the bowl into the boiling jam. When the juice has reached 230 degrees F (thread stage), fold in the fruit and cook it until berries are just cooked and jam is thickened to your liking (usually no more than 5 minutes).Â
Meanwhile, there’s a large pot of water boiling with clean canning jars, sterilizing. I toss the lids in at the end, lift the jars out and fill them with jam, pop the tops on, tighten the rings, then back into the pot to boil for about 10 minutes. Lift them out and let them cool before labeling and storing.  Clean up is super easy when all the sticky pots, spoons and bowls are dumped into the sink and the hot canning water is poured over, the mess just melts away.
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